 |
||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||
 |
Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure |
 |
||||||||||
 |
||||||||||||
 |
||||||||||||
Motorcycle TourMagazine |
||||||||||||
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
After a brief riders meeting this day, where the need to stay to the right and away from the dreaded “Touro Bus” was heavily stressed we followed the guides out of the labyrinth called Bolzano and moved westward through the southern Tyrol.
Our group was going to split up again this day as many wanted to tackle Paso Del Stelvio, with its 48 switchbacks on the northside alone, the pass is the highest paved road in the eastern Alps. From lush fields and forests below it quickly rises into rocky tundra on hairpins that are packed close together. It is not for the inexperienced rider or those afraid of heights. The payment for mastering the Stelvio this day was a superb view, a great lunch, and some time wandering around the shops and cafés on top.
Shira and I had ridden Stelvio a few times before, as well as the Gavia Pass back when it was still dirt, so we decided to run another route and enjoy the Ofenpass; one we had heard of but had never ridden. But, first we all rode together to the medieval town of Glurns. This place was sacked in 1499 and when rebuilt they made it a walled city. Today just 800 people call Glurns home, but it is a home that is as charming as can be.
I had not gotten a chance to ride the Ofen, but was very pleased with the manner that this sweet piece of asphalt rode up and over the pass. Long and open curves that laced along a deep forest; which finally gave way to a more barren feel that is so common in this region. With Stelvio so close by it reminded me of the difference between the Tail of the Dragon and the Cherohala Skyway down south; one tough and technical the other just a pleasant and sweepy ride with a view.
At the summit we stopped for a big lunch, enjoying the vista and watching the dozens of motorcycles ride by. Right about then things started to get a bit wet; but such is the Alps. We were headed towards the town called Livigno and, along the way, crossed back into Italy and then rode through the tightest tunnel I have ever encountered. Running just one-way; the far end of the tunnel opened up to a huge dam with a tunneled roadway that sped alongside its deep green lake bordered by incredibly high, steep and barren cliffs.
Not a half hour later one half of the rest of our group rode in, the others still out on a longer route. It seems everyone did well with the Stelvio Pass and they all now have the “Mother Road” under their belts.
That evening during dinner, the Edelweiss team brought out special tee shirts to commemorate the trip. Done in typical Edelweiss fashion it had the route on the front but a huge Backroads logo emblazoned on the back.
Pontresina, Switzerland to Warth, Austria We had a forecast of stiff rain for this day so we were all happy to awake to clear blue skies and wispy cumulous clouds floating about the mountains around Pontresina. Our ride would be on the short side this day, compared to the others, yet we would pass through 2.5 countries - as Lichtenstein is just so tiny. We decided to ride with Ursula’s group today and after leaving the town we made time on a long valley road and then headed up the Albula Pass.
It felt as if we were riding through the forest of the moon. On the way down the pass opened up to yet another spectacular Alpen scene. Not much further on the entire group stopped for coffee and a most delicious apple strudel in a vanilla sauce. After that I was ready for a nap. Along our way we rode through a deep valley with large trees hugging the road and making almost a tunnel effect; this led us to one tiny roadway that went up and over a large hill that rode through a Swiss military installation and then down a long and twisty road and into Lichtenstein.
Mike, Mike, Mike…. Lichtenstein is a place we have been before and we need not go back again. Crowded, full of shops, it’s like the country is one major line of traffic, but it was along our way and was yet another nation for our group to tag. Almost immediately we crossed into Austria; with a tight lipped and very serious border guard waving us in with a flick of his pen.
We were told that this road would be very tight, almost one lane in places, but as technical as it was it was also one of the most beautiful. Winding our way higher we rode through forests and along some of the most impressive waterfalls of the trip – and believe me; we had seen many, many great cascades along this journey. We stopped atop the road at a restaurant for brats, schnitzel and schmaltz – which Shira had to have. We also found a guitar hanging on the wall and our own little birthday song was sung to the two gals, Nuri and Rene, that were celebrating that ‘trip around the sun’ that week. From here it was a short ride to our hotel for the night but the road was quite alluring and instead of stopping at the hotel we continued on for a little side trip to Lech and the ravines and gorges the region is famous for.
I had stopped to take a picture of our riders running along the gorge. Getting on my bike to follow after them Shira called over the Cardo communicators that three bikes were down and a bus was involved. This was the very thing I had dreaded since we thought of this tour years back. The bus, whom they all spotted coming, easily could have waited a few seconds, but never count on that, and the driver decided to roll through the turn forcing three bikes against the cliff face. Lucky for all we just ended up with the bikes against the wall; with just one machine falling over.
They are born evil and shouldn’t be allowed on the planet. With bikes and egos slightly bruised, and lesson learned, the group continued on to Lech for coffee and Shira and I returned to the hotel, calling it a day. The hotel tonight was the best of the trip. And, after dinner cakes were brought out for all the riders that were also celebrating birthdays – adding Stephen and Ed to the mix – with both men turning 60. I can’t think of a better way to commemorate this milestone than to ride in this motorcycling dreamland.
As they say – all good things…. This was the first day that we really had to deal with serious moisture. Almost the entire trip, with a few quick exceptions, was rain free, but today would be a soggy one. Leaving Warth we rode through the last bit of mountainous terrain and a few hours later, after crossing back into Germany, we were running along the hilly farmlands of Bavaria. Although it was the last day of the tour, we did have a few stops to make.
As stunning as the Weis Church was, our next destination was the Neuschwanstein Castle, a truly phenomenal sight. The palace was commissioned by Ludwig II of Bavaria as a retreat and as an homage to Richard Wagner.
One wonders… what the mortgage and utilities might be on a place like this? As the day wound down the weather broke and we rode back to Erding under splashes of sunlight. Rolling back into the underground garage at the hotel we had that familiar feeling that always accompanies the end of an outstanding trip. We had made a plan nearly two years back and it had exceeded all of our expectations. Including the guides we had 28 folks riding along the magnificent Alps. Germany, Austria, Italy, Switzerland and the tiny principality of Lichtenstein were all visited this week and well over 1,000 exciting kilometers were ridden.
We think everybody had a fantastic time and we would like to thank all of you who made the trip to Europe to spend a week with us riding and exploring the backroads of the Europe. Hmmm, now the question is - where to next? |
|||
Brian Rathjen The Date: late August 2009 The Place: a small hotel just north of the Grossglockner Pass We were just finishing up an entire month riding in Europe; first the Alps and then a long swing through the Balkans. The previous day we crossed our last mountain and took a room at a small hotel a few miles off the famed Grossglockner Pass. While having a light breakfast Shira and I got to talking about how terrific the Alps were to ride on motorcycles and it would indeed be special to hold some sort of Backroads event here in Europe; a tour or rally of some sort. “It would be a bit difficult to get that done,” thought Shira. “Maybe…or not,” I replied. I added, “What if we brought somebody else into this game?” Shira looked at me. “Edelweiss has this region down pat, when we get home let’s talk to them about doing some sort of tour – just for our readers.” Thus a plan was hatched…. Present time…. When we advertised a Backroads High Alpine Tour back in late 2009 we had hoped to maybe get a dozen readers to join us on a weeks sojourn through the Alps. We never considered we would get twice that. But in mid-July of this year old friends and new began to filter into the small town of Erding, just outside of Munich, Germany. We had flown in earlier in the week, picking up our motorcycles for the next few weeks; two BMWs, a F650GS and the new F800R.
By Friday evening we were back in Munich and most of our group was present and accounted for. Saturday many of the riders that had arrived early took in the Munich sites including the BMW Museum (once again closed, this time due to electrical problems) and a quick stop at the local BMW dealer to browse a bit while others searched out the local Harley-Davidson shop for that rare Munich H-D Tee shirt. We took the local underground to the famed Marienplatz, with it’s striking buildings, clocks and square.
At the same time more and more Americans and a couple from Canada had arrived in Munich. We had enticed a good number of people to ride with us in the Alps. It was more than excellent and excitement was running high. Sunday found many taking the Edelweiss’ excellent Alpen Riding School.
Still, there were some of us with a bit of Alpen experience; so while the day long class was going on a few took advantage of another day of sight seeing while we headed to the Therme Erding, the largest spa and water park in Europe. Fantastic place and one many of us would return to after the tour was done.
At long last, we’re on the road Erding, Germany to Lienz, Austria It took nearly two years to finally get this together but after breakfast and a brief riders’ meeting we split our large gathering into two separate groups and more or less decided for all of us to stick with the tour guides for this first day in the Alps. Our route, which started off a bit soggy and cool, brought us south from the Munich region and through the rolling farmlands of Bavaria. The road traversed through small German towns, all with the required church and steeple. We made a short stop on the shores of Lake Chiemsee, or what the locals call the “Bavarian Sea”. Created from the last ice age it is very popular with Munich residents for boating and holidays. You will find a few islands in the lake and one houses a Benedictine nunnery, built in 782, as well as a small village.
Sometime in the late morning we had crossed the border into Austria and, from here on in, the days ride got more interesting by the kilometer. By this time the sun was peaking out, with some heavy clouds floating around the bigger peaks. It was turning into an excellent first day on the road. One of the most famous pass roads in Europe is Austria’s Grossglockner which runs through the Hohe Tauern National Park, the largest park in the European Alps. The toll road was completed back in the 1930’s and the high alpine road has 36 bends, and an altitude ascent to 2,504 meters, or 8,225 feet. As we approached the toll road I pointed out to our friend Steve Sachar, riding behind me, the very same tiny gasthaus where we had first come up with the idea for this tour. How excellent to ride by this place again, but this time with all these friends. We had come full circle – and it was just as we had discussed two years back. Although the sky had started to clear we could see, high above, that we would be dealing with the deep clouds at times as we rode up the Grossglockner. Heading higher and higher, along tight switchback turns, we soon found ourselves riding in some deep clouds with just about zero visibility. For some this was a new and not a very pleasant experience. Others had dealt with this phenomenon before. It was like the Blue Ridge Parkway on a bad day, but far worse. Along with the clouds we had to deal with temperatures in the low 30’s – on wet roads – it was the perfect “Baptism of Fire” for those ones new to this part of the world. For those in our group looking to ride the Alps their first pass had it all. There was a ride option to one lookout, but with zero visibility most of us rode over the summit and through the tunnel. Most of us. Some, for some odd reason, decided that heading even higher into the clouds was an excellent idea. A hardy bunch they were and undaunted they carried onward.
The price of the view was missing the picnic. Looking back I would have joined them. After the picnic we spun over to the Franz Joseph Glacier. This monster is the longest in this part of the Alps and even in the high summer was still very impressive, dark, cold and foreboding.
Around 5’ish we pulled into the gated parking lot in the center of Lienz, in the shadow of the craggy Dolomites, and took our room, showered and went out to explore this Austrian city. There was a great square in the town center, right out our hotel’s main doors and wine, beer and the all-important “gelato” was easily found. Life was good on the road in the Alps. Lienz, Austria to Bolzano, Italy The second day of the trip brought us deep into the infamous Italian Dolomites. We have always loved riding here and once again these special mountains, named after a French geologist de Dolom who discovered that the sedimentary rock here was far different than other stone found in the alps. This difference shows as the Dolomites almost look like J. R. R. Tolkien's fictional Mordor as you approach them. We had split the large group into two, with the more aggressive riders following Alan and the folks more interested in sight seeing and stopping for pictures riding along with Ursula. Today was Angela’s job to bring the picnic together.
It was time to head into the heart of the Dolomites, along valleys rich with conifers that quickly gave way to the stark stony reality of these mountains. Here the roads followed tight switchbacks as we gained altitude. If there is a riding heaven it just might be here. Atop Paso Di Falzarego we spied Angela and the Edelweiss van in a large field with the Dolomites stretched for what seemed forever around it.
Along for the ride came Stephen from Vermont. This was the first time Stephen had ridden with us and by the end of the day he was a Backroads veteran as, in typical fashion, we put him through dead ends, u-turns, and heading in the wrong direction for miles. At one T intersection I, once again, chose the wrong way and some many kilometers later we rode along Passo di Gardena. It was a great mistake.
At the bottom of the pas I waited off to the side when I spied the bicyclist rocketing down the hill. These bicyclists ride down these passes at absurd speeds and I tried my best to get out of his way, not really knowing where I should put myself and the bike. Evidentially I did well as he told me by hand signals that I was #1 in his book and wished me well in a loud, if screaming Italian voice. I did the same to him. Shira came by minutes later and I signaled to here, not that she was #1 although she is in my books, but to wait in town. Five minutes passed before the tour bus, with Stephen behind came by. I had to wait for the thirty cars and trucks to pass before I could continue into the small town below. I rode up the wrong street and had to backtrack to where Shira was waiting. This took some time and by then Stephen had ridden back up the mountain to recover what Shira was convinced was my mangled body. This only meant that I had to follow up behind Stephen. It was a classic FUBAR.
Edelweiss had the two groups getting in at different times. Group B would head straight into Bolzano, where as the Group A headed around the city and looped through the Penser Joch. About an hour behind this group Shira, Stephen and I came storming through; better late than never. What incredible scenery. The mountain peaks, the deep valleys, the clouds that seem to dance through and about the ridges; and all this linked by a beautiful ribbon of roadway that only can be best seen by motorcycle. This certainly is why we came here. Heading back towards Bolzano, the Jaufenpass was completely different as it ran itself through a deep Italian forest with tall hemlock trees snuggling close to the edge of the road. We could see how legends of the supernatural would come from this region especially after the sun is down. All along this region you will see signs in both Italian and German; that is because this part of the Southern Alps was handed to the Italians after World War I and the city of Bolzano, or Bozen depending on who claims the region, has a distinct Austrian/Italian feel to it. Bolzano was a typical European city with a warren of streets and alleyways. Finding the hotel was a chore at the very least. But, eventually we all got there. Semper Fi Stephen! Free Day in Bolzano We had a free day this Wednesday and the group enjoyed it in many different ways. A number of our Backroads regulars took off round 9am for a short ride up into the mountains while others took off to simply explore Bolzano.
It was an incredible historical and scientific find and we could not pass up the opportunity to see him in person. After a short visit to the museum, which was more than fascinating, we strolled around the center of town with its cobblestone streets and allies.
Walking further through the outdoor markets we bought some Speck, which is a distinctively juniper-flavored ham, cheese and some bottles of wine for that afternoon. And later, when the groups of riders returned from their short ride enjoying all the wonderful roads this part of northern Italy has to offer, we got together for a little afternoon soiree’.
Being a free night many got together with friends and found some nearby Bolzano restaurants for a real Italian meal this evening and most, not all, made it an early night as tomorrow we would continue on to Pontresina, Switzerland. So far all the roads Edelweiss had brought us on were magnificent; but for some the next day would be very special indeed; as they would be tackling ‘The Mother Road’ – Paso del Stelvio. Bolzano, Italy to Pontresina, Switzerland |
||||
Backroads Hits the Alps - Letters from the Group Hi Brian & Shira,
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dear Brian & Shira, It sounds somewhat trite or hackneyed to say that a particular event was "the trip of a lifetime," but in the case of the Edelweiss High Alpine Tour, these words seem entirely appropriate. The food and accommodations were first class, our tour guides were friendly, helpful, and welcoming, our fellow riders were fine companions, and the roads were incomparable. For a lowland guy like me, the Alpine passes were exhilarating and at times, downright scary. It was an experience I will treasure for the rest of my life.
The hills were alive with the sound of… motorcycles. Rather than just rest on the free day in Bolzano, Bruce and I took the opportunity for a “short” ride with just a few bikes and two guides. The scenery was spectacular – rolling vineyards, apple orchards and sweeping curves through the countryside, and narrow streets and centuries-old buildings through the countless small towns. Ursula made sure we got to sample the local “sweetie” Kaiserschmarrn at our coffee stop, and Alan introduced us to his friends at the Labyrinthgarten Kränzel, a vineyard, organic winery and outdoor art museum. Bruce made friends with the crazy semi-nude mannequins scattered around the grounds. The ride up Grossglockner with its rugged scenery and sheer height was my most memorable day, but the Bolzano rest day was my favourite. So Brian and Shira, thank you for making this trip possible. We had the time of our lives! Cheers, Bruce & Gail Brown • London, Ontario Canada (51st US State) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Backroads Crew,
Thanks, Renee and Bob Luongo ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Folks,
~ Stephen Pitman - Vermont |
||||
|
|
|
|
|
This is a road we couldn’t forget. A few years back we came from the opposite direction, when heading towards Slovenia, and we marveled at how many apple orchards there were then and we did the same this day.
Then the group had the fun and exciting chore of riding back down the southern side.
We all stopped for coffee and then our groups split up, with most heading to Stelvio and Shira and myself joining with our Canadian friends Bruce and Gail Brown to explore the Ofenpass.
On this route we quickly crossed into Switzerland.
Soon we picked up the sign for Pontresina and in no time we had found fuel for the bikes and the hotel.
We had been to this little Swiss town many years back and it has some unique, if over-priced shops, so with everything taken care of Shira and I went out to reacquaint ourselves with the town.
We knew shirts would be coming but really liked how they turned out. Thank you Edelweiss, they will be worn proudly.
Atop here the rocks from the taller peaks had slid for thousands of years and the tight and windy road was framed with large and unforgiving boulders. 
Here Mike Mosca, who rode with us in Africa two years back, got a little side tracked and rode up to a soldier to ask directions only to see an automatic weapon being slung around as the soldier attempted to answer. 
Ursula had promised us one last mountain ride – the Furajoch.
This is where we had a slight incident with the one thing we had told everyone repeatedly - the evil tour bus.
Here on these tight roads the buses take up almost all the pavement, especially in the tight turns, and avoiding them can be a trying task indeed and you must be ever vigilant and aware of what might be coming down the road and never, ever, trust the bus driver. 
Warth, Austria to Erding, Germany
Our first was to a small church which was built around a crying statue of Jesus. The faithful adore crying icons and although I have seen many beautiful churches and cathedrals, the Pilgrimage Church of Weis was truly striking. In 1738, tears were seen on a dilapidated wooden figure of the Scourged Savior. This miracle resulted in a pilgrimage rush to see the sculpture. In 1740, a small chapel was built to house the statue but it was soon realized that the building would be too small for the number of pilgrims it attracted, and so Steingaden Abbey decided to commission a separate shrine. Many who have prayed in front of the statue of Jesus on the altar, have claimed that people have been miraculously cured of their diseases, which has made this church even more of a pilgrimage site. 
The palace was intended as a personal refuge for the reclusive king, but it was opened to the paying public immediately after his mysterious death in 1886. Since then over 60 million people have visited Neuschwanstein Castle. More than 1.3 million people visit annually, with up to 6,000 per day in the summer. The palace has appeared prominently in several movies and was the inspiration for Disneyland's Sleeping Beauty Castle and later, similar structures. Here we only stopped for pictures, but even though we had seen Castle Neuschwanstein before, it never fails to inspire.
That evening we had a great meal, with Shira and I saying some words and our guides all saying how much fun they had with us as well.
With a few days to kill we scooted through the Alps to the hills above Lake Geneva to visit long time friends Norm and Denise Smith. Many of you would remember Norm as the gent who ran the BMW demo rides at events such as Americade and such.
Big beers, pig knuckles and the oompah band at the Brauhaus that afternoon had many of us in an Alpine mood and looking forward to getting on the road.
The Alps are unlike anything some American riders had ever experienced and Edelweiss’ school builds a great skill base, for riders who have never ridden in the Alps, before they head up to the challenging peaks and passes. In addition, it gives them a chance to ‘bond’ with their ride for the week, in many cases a bike that was quite unfamiliar to them.
That evening we had our first of many meetings with our three guides from Edelweiss - Ursula, Angela and Alan - where we were given an overview of the week’s tour and a bit on what to expect and look out for on the roads, towns and high peaks.
Continuing on we came around one winding road and finally, in the distance, we took our first glace at the reason we had all traveled here – the mighty European Alps.
Meanwhile while the rest of us enjoy a superb picnic, which Edelweiss provided, on the sunny other side of the mountain, watching bikes and sports cars sling by, these others rode slowly around in the clouds until they actually got above them and enjoyed the stupendous view. 
At this point our group was back together and we had a truly enjoyable ride down the pass on wide-open roads with just a smattering of traffic that was easily disposed of. As you might be aware of, passing cars is not only allowed in Europe, but is expected. Our type of place.
Along the way from Lienz we passed Lake Misurna, a lovely lake with spectacular views and a few creation legends as well. We stopped here for the ‘digital moment’ and then moved on.
At this point our groups were getting comfortable with the different riding styles and with the need to get more photography Shira and I opted to split from the group, hoping my quickly put together GPS route wouldn’t bring us to Slovenia.
On our way back down we got stuck behind a large tour bus – the mortal nemesis of riders in these mountains – and after a few tight turns I was able to pass and later on Shira, but Stephen was hopelessly stuck behind; along with at least 30 cars and trucks.
Still, all this added up to a great day as we saw plenty of the Dolomites for sure.
Shira and I, under orders from Dr. Seymour O’Life, headed to the museum to view the Ice Man. Discovered in 1991 by a German couple hiking in the high mountains Otzi, as he is called, is a 5,300 year old man that had been preserved in the ice for all those thousands of years. 
Near the center we ran into two of our group, Graham and Gail, and we all sat down for a glass of prosecco in a quaint little outdoor bar that emphasized it was “stress free.” The owner, Cobo, is an artist and a character himself and gave the girls copies of his books, loving the fact we were from New York, New Jersey, the US or whatever. His happiness was infectious.
Many said that this day’s ride was the best of the entire tour.
Thanks again for a great week’s riding in the Alps it was the ride of a life time for me. I never thought I'd be riding in the Alps and would not have if not for Backroads putting this trip together. It was the best way to celebrate my 60th birthday. It was fun learning to ride the roads on the mountain passes with Alan, Angela and Ursula, our tour guides for the week. Great fun. Thanks again Backroads. ~ Ed
We had never before visited Europe together - this was my first time over the pond, and she had gone to Greece in high school - so we really did not know what to expect. I came away with a great respect for the high level of driving skills exhibited by European drivers. Imagine, a land where motorcyclists are not hated, or even just tolerated, but embraced! This is Europe. Close your eyes and visualize a place where no one closes their eyes and travels five miles per hour under the speed limit in the passing lane of an expressway! This is Europe. A magical place where drivers actually check their rear view mirrors and ease to the right to allow a faster machine to pass. Now that we are back in North America, these fanciful thoughts seem almost like a dream.
An amazing adventure! Ate wiener schnitzel, apple strudel, and gelato sometimes 2-3 times/day, drank wine and beer and enjoyed every minute of it. Rode thru the most breathtaking roads and mountain passes in the world! Exciting and yet sometimes scary on those switchbacks! All the better to enjoy it w/old friends and new friends we met on this tour. Fantastic memories to treasure. 
After climbing up the 2,760 meter Passo Della Stelvio and its 48 hairpin switchbacks, we took a short rest on top for some sausage and a drink. The views were spectacular until the clouds lowered and it started to lightly snow. Off we rode towards Bormio, and another series of hairpins, followed by tunnels carved out of the edge of the mountains. Glad I wore my jacket's liner on top, I couldn't wait to remove it by the time we made it to the bottom. The riding skills of my companions and our Guides were evident as they effortlessly floated through the many curves facing us on this High Alps Tour. One cannot help but improve when riding with such skilled motorcyclists. There is nothing close to this in Northern Vermont, so I guess I shall have to to Europe again. Sign me up, Shira!